Converting a wood desk for jewelers’ use (an alternative to Frankendesk for Dremel users!).

by aule on October 14, 2010

And now for something completely different! 

I had read several articles on modifying a wood desk into something a little more usable for jewelry making.    Here is my take on it:

I decided to make my modifications in two passes.  Because I don’t have experience with conventional jewelers’ tools, my tool of choice for basic shaping will be my Dremel, and I prefer a vise over a bench pin.

I am however mindful of the high importance given regarding the placement of the bench pin in a conventional jewelers’ desk.  I therefore decided to compromise and install a vise stand on my desk. 

Steps:

1) Measure the stand height to be exactly at the top of the shoulder (as recommended in the Ganoksin forums).  

2) Remove the back half of the top inch of the stand, for mounting my smallest vise at eye level at any orientation. 

3) Mount stand with metal corner braces so that vise may be reached comfortably from sitting position in chair.

4) Optional: place a hook into side of stand to hang Dremel when not in use.

Stand for vise with a place to hang rotary tool.

Stand for vise with a place to hang rotary tool.

 5) If your desk has a center drawer, drill holes to sweep precious metal shavings into.

Holes drilled to sweep silver filings into desk.

Holes drilled to sweep silver filings into desk.

 6) Build a freestanding upper-body rest.

A single 4 foot piece of 6 inch square treated support timber will work for the main body, as it is heavy enough to provide a counterweight for your body.  Place it at least six inches behind the vise stand.

You will also need lengths of solid 2 inch by 4 inch cross section timbers, presanded to prevent catching splinters when in use:    

Before sawing: position a 2 by 4 upon the main body, for best comfort beneath your arms.  Measure length sufficient to support your underarm, then cut.  3 feet seems to work best for me.

Adjust timber lengths and distance between them for comfort.

Adjust timber lengths and distance between them for comfort.

You will also need to cut 6 inch lengths of 2 by 4 to support the arm rails closer to the front of the desk.  Place these supports at about where you want your wrists to be when supporting your Dremel for shaping underneath the vise.  

I assembled these wood parts using metal angle brackets and metal mending brackets.  Use whatever you have available.

The reason for placing the 2 by 4 front supports at the distance of your wrists, is so that you can mount using mending braces a section of PVC pipe for resting your wrists upon.  I recommend against using wood for the wrist support.

Portable arm and wrist stand surrounding the vise stand.

Portable arm and wrist stand surrounding the vise stand.

To use: 

Sit in your chair as close into the well as you are comfortable with your back leaning against the back of the chair.   Lean your upper arms along the ends of the timbers closest to you.   Hold your Dremel so that the tip is just at the point of the vise.  Use the weight of your arms to shift the body rest forward or backward so that your wrists or palms are comfortable upon the PVC cross support. 

The vise stand with the body support together, will provide an arrangement which should provide a restful upper body and position while carving.   I have discovered that when my wrists or palms fully supported while my upper body is relieved of strain, I get the fewest amount of carving errors due to variations caused by involuntary body motion.

Enjoy!

 

Aulë

{ 1 comment… read it below or add one }

Bentiron October 14, 2010 at 1:35 pm

Here is a link to another useful homemade tool for you
http://www.myheap.com/book/chapter-02/engraverball/engraverball.php

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