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In Search of Shape

My work for the last few years has all been circular. Not that there is anything wrong with that…

But my friends Marina, Addison and Bill advised me to look at some other options. So, after seeing a great brooch Bill welded, I decided on this:

Kinda goth, but might be interesting made in prissy pretty enamel. So, I started with the outline. One idea is to abstract the shape, and the other is more literal.

And fill in with some wire linework, to hold the color.

Filling with enamel and firing.

I love my new color palette strategy, it really works great.

I am not sure which shape I like best.

Macabre is always classic.

By the way, I have started to compile my notes from the blog on granulation in a more readable form here, if this is something you are interested in.

Granulation with the Ultralite Kiln

I am an enamelist, primarily. As offshoots of this passion I have also played with Jean Stark’s wonderful series of fused link chains, and lately, granulation.

These endeavors have in common the act of fusing fine silver. If it is chain, you are making circles to become links. If it is enamel, I am making fused borders (and soon, settings for small gypsy-set brilliants) and if it is granulation, I am just indulging my curiosity.

Last Christmas I was granulating on a little butane burner, and made lots of earrings. (see previous posts)
But for the past few months I have been enameling happily and listening to the History of Rome, a most entertaining podcast. This put me in the mood for a cloak brooch, something bigger to wear with my winter gear, and indulge my inner barbarian. Need more BTUs.

Reflecting on the matter, I resolved to try the little ultralite enameling kiln that I use for my enamels.

It is about 1500 degrees, and with a little butane torch on top, I should be able to get it to the eutectic threshold, which I am guessing is 1640 degrees, or the melting point of sterling silver.

So beginning with a 2 inch disk, I use cable, wire and bosses to make a design, and some granules, too. Granules are the least fun aspect of granulation, so I try to find alternatives.

I use Bluefuse to attach the elements and heat it in the Ultralite kiln, and use a butane torch from above to bring up the temperature enough to fuse. It took several tries, but worked.

Now next winter I can bundle up in style and pretend my name is Eudoxia.

To Capture Color

One thing about enameling, the color is marvelous. The Color is the point, mostly. But on a bad day, it can be is awful. Color in enamel depends on color combinations, and if you pick the right colors all is well. If not, then your piece goes into the box in the drawer.

It is so frustrating to do all the wirework, and all the preparation, to have your colors go wrong. And if your colors are beautiful, that enamel sells right away, and you have lost the color palette.

Obviously, I need a strategy to both create and retain color combinations. Knowing what enamels I used to get there would be helpful, too.

As the morning sun lit an arrangement of freesias in the dining room, I had an idea. The colors were so lovely, I wondered if I could capture them in enamel. So I photographed them.

I used photoshop to pull likely colors from the photo, and made a digital palette of color. Enamel over silver has a lot the same brillance as color on a computer screen, and I thought I could come close to duplicating the colors on a small sample chip.

So I prepared some sample cloisonne bases, using quick and non-fussy wirework, just enough to hold the colors.

The final enamel ‘palettes’ are not beautiful, but they give me guidance for the actual work. I wrote down the enamels I used, so now I can design the piece with better confidence. Also I can show the palettes to customers who may want designs in custom colors. I have heard this referred to as ‘colorways’ in fabric printing.

Here is how the information retained in the palette is used. It looks a lot better in the final designs.

Simplifying Granulation

Lately I’ve been absorbed in making lots of earrings for the holiday season, using my new granulation skills. I’ve found fusing to be an easy and surprisingly speedy way to assemble things. Anyone who has experimented with granulation knows that the main problem is making the granules. My friend Iris solved this problem for me, with her ‘splash’ method, see this link for an explanation.

Using this method, you can make a nice tablespoon of shot quickly, using your fine silver scrap.

But to use the shot, you must sort it first. If you own a set of sieves, no problem, but what if you don’t? If you are trying this technique out, you probably want to be sure you like granulation before you buy a pricey diamond sieve. Well, here is a simple way to sort your pile of granules into graduated sizes using tools that you may have in your house. I’ll call it ‘Straw Grading’.

Backing up, you might have some sieves laying around that you didn’t notice. Here are two basin catch-thingys I got at the oriental food market yesterday, and a stainless screen I regularly use for soldering on a tripod.

For the purposes of this demo, I am going to use the soldering screen to remove the largest of the shot, but you could just as easily pick out the largest balls with tweezers.

Next, get an ordinary plastic drinking straw, and a couple of alligator clips.

Fold and clip one end of the straw closed, and fill the straw with your shot.

Trim the straw with scissors, leaving an inch or two of head-room, and clip the top closed.

Notice the shot loads into the straw mixed randomly.

I remember in science class in 6th grade we added water to a jar of soil and shook it, and watched as the particles graded themselves into layers. I guessed that the same effect might happen with granules, and it does.

I give it a couple of shakes, and then roll it vigorously between my palms.

As it sorts itself, it will pack tighter and tighter, so I stop and pinch it to loosen it, and roll it some more. After about five or ten minutes, the granules will become sorted from large to small. The stacking pattern will look a little like corn on the cob.

Now it is just a matter of pinching the straw at the top of the column of shot. This forces upward a few granules that are the same size, and stops the rest from rolling out. Pour these little balls in the first of a series of little cups, and they will be your largest shot. Pinch again, right at the top, and another dozen granules will be squeezed away from the column. Pour those into the next little cup.

Work your way down the straw, squeezing and pouring, until your reach the bottom. The last batch are dust-like , and too small to use anyway, unless you fuse like an Etruscan.

Now you have lots of sizes. There will be a few ‘odd balls’, that you can move to a better matching size with a pair of tweezers. This way of sorting isn’t as perfect as using the diamond sieve, but it is much easier, faster and cheaper. The resulting sets of granules will need a little correction, but are amazingly well matched given the simplicity of the method.

Now you can start the fun part of granulation, making the jewels. These are enameled earrings I made this week for the Betty McKim Earring Challenge.

The Beauty of Portability: Working at the Beach

My friend Iris was in town this week, to enjoy the hurricane in Wilmington, NC. After it blew over, I joined her down at the Carolina coast for a few days of jewelry talk, fancy food and beach.

Because this is our passion, we are both happiest while working. So she used her new technology to complete a distance learning lesson.

Iris Typing

Meanwhile I used my stone-age technology to make my earrings for the Betty McKim Earring Challenge. I just put a few tools on the table, and had everything I needed. Sometimes simplicity is a good thing.

The next pieces I made fusing wire and using a bit of old delrin as flat surface to true up things, as it is both light, tough and less likely to mar soft fine silver.Delrin block

Here is the dining room table with my stuff. It was a very simple setup, not even a whole toolbox full of stuff. Granted, I made the granules at home…

And another shot of things in progress. Here I am fusing on my little butane ‘chaffing dish’ burner. I made a wire holder support for the firing platform. It is light but squirrelly: I am contemplating a better design.

And after a hard day playing, we enjoyed the fruits of our labors. Here is Iris drinking a cocktail at the Oceanic Pier, and showing off earrings.

Enameling Again

Christmas is coming, and the elves are all doing production work, with the hope that someone, somewhere will have some money to spend. For the last week I’ve been making granulated earrings that all look alike. Not very entertaining…so this week I worked on a pair of enamel earrings for a sample for a class at Ornamentea.

In this design, I start out with fine silver rings and disks, and fuse them with BlueFuse. (Excuse the focus)



This forms a ‘champleve’ style silver base for the enamel. Next I’ll use a scribe to make some lines in the soft silver.

Dome the base to control the warping that can occur due to the different COE of silver and glass.


And this is my helpful assistant Zack, who is very interested in everything.
I’ve decided to try to completely torch-fire this project, just to see if I can. Torch firing is nice because you don’t need specialized equipment, but is tricky if you have to have both sides turn out presentable. Here is the first layer of clear enamel being melted on with an acetylene torch. Propane works fine, too. Butane will work but needs to be a bigger flame, as butane is a cooler gas.

And the wires that will make the design.

I add the enamel, called ‘wetpacking’, in four or five layers to get the final colors.

Once it is finished, I am adding some bits of silver foil to add to the composition. They will fire into the surface as a permanent feature. I also added some orange onto the top at the end to spice up the color combination.

Granulation meets Biology

Design is the final frontier of any technique. Making a personal statement with granulation is difficult, because granulation has definite character. This week’s earrings for the Betty McKim Earring Challenge uses multiple techniques, and begins to explore the nexus between geometry and biology. On my bench I have these bases to start with.

Being a creature of habit, I start as I have been, with fusing some balls and a ring onto the base. Granulation has the unexpected benefit of being really fast and easy compared to soldering. No fuss, no flux, no jumping chips and fiddling with your solder pick to get everything put back where it was. Just position with BlueFuse and heat.

Now things begin to get strange. I once read a quote from John Paul Miller which I paraphrase: If you master one technique in your work, everyone can copy you. If you master two techniques, a few people can copy you. If you master three techniques no one will be able to copy you. I have skills in forging and enamel, and now I am adding granulation, but can I mix these things effectively?

Looks biological, all right.

And now for the enamel. There is not much space to get fancy, so just a little color and sparkle.

They are small, light and very lively.

From Geometry to Jellyfish

The past few years I have struggled with my affinity for the circle. It just seemed too easy, but recently I have decided to just go with it. After all, there are lots of interesting things that are circular: planets, hubcaps and hurricanes.

This is one of a series of triskele enamels, with tri-fold symmetry.

enamel triskele pendant

Now that I have given myself permission, I find that I want to tweak my circles a little. This week’s project is beginning to remind me of a favorite artist and scientist, Ernst Haeckel. Something about the combination of forms is looking alive.

bench with stuff

Granulation is a great tool for tiny detail, and has a kind of ‘building block’ quality that seems biomorphic.

bench with stuff

I think I’ll call it “Narcomedusa”.

bench with stuff

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Turning a Sow’s Ear into a Silk Purse

Gone are the days when I tossed my mistakes into the little box on my bench. Silver is just too expensive to treat without the proper respect, and perhaps that is as it should be. Even though anything that could go wrong did, I decided to fix the meltdown to use for my Betty McKim Earring Challenge project. They are not very presentable viewed with the pitiless magnification of my little camera, but look fine on me.

earrings

But more encouragingly, I taught my first class in this technique at Ornamentea this week, and it was successful. I’ve been fascinated with circular forms for years, and found the Strickland Brooch at the British Museum.

strickland brooch

Inspired, I designed a class project that a non-jeweler could complete in a few hours. I wanted to use more cable and less granules, as they are difficult to produce without a lot of scrap on hand for the Sandkuhler Splash. Melting little balls one at a time, and needing several hundred is not doable in a day length workshop.

notebook drawings

This is the beginning project that we did. They had no problems, and were even able to do their own designs, which turned out great.

granulation class project

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Sad Day in Granulationland

Just when I was feeling pretty good, like, this is great! I have it under control! comes the cosmic reminder that pride goes before a fall.

The last pair of green earrings had a great enamel effect, one that I had never seen before. I had heated the piece so hot that the enamel had leveled itself like water in the bezel. This is pretty hot, maybe up around 1750 F, much hotter than you normally go with enamel. And the index of refraction of the glass caused a nice distortion, and made the earrings look like they had pearls or those antique convex mirrors in them.

Naturally I want to try this again, see if I can reproduce the magic. It all went pretty well until the Very Last Thing (isn’t that always the way), and I torched it a moment too long. Uh Oh………….

I should have known better, the light was full westering sun, and you should always do this type of work in semi-darkness. Ahh well, lesson learned.

On another more interesting note, metal clay artist and teacher Priscilla Aliberti pointed out that you can granulate on fired metal clay silver. Although I am not very competent in metal clay, I like it. This is my first trial of granulation on metal clay. It was already fired, and the granules are regular fine silver.

If metal clay was within my budget, I’d be all over it. As it is, I may take a class in the copper clay, which is a really lovely color.

Here is a piece I didn’t melt, just to make me feel better.


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