What Happened?

by loiskmartens on May 8, 2011

My mother-in-law’s most important jewelry status statement was her 1 ct diamond ring.  The stone was mounted in a fairly standard 1950′s white gold prong setting.  I was pleased to inherit this ring.

Several years later two of the prongs began snagging my clothes.  The lateral photo shows noticeable air between the prong and the girdle of the diamond.  After 60 years of use it was time to reset the stone.

It is my stuff so I saw off two of the triangular shaped prongs to dismount the diamond.  Then I start to check out the stone:  Cut – old style with truncated culet; Color – a little yellow, probably G; Purity – clean, VVS; Weight – 75 pts.  Holy Cow!  It is not a 1 ct diamond.  What happened to the missing 25 points?

In 60 years many things could have happened to this ring including that, maybe, the diamond had never been a full carat.  Certainly I was disappointed not to have a 1 ct diamond but this had been a gift and much appreciated.  The situation would have been very different if this had been a client’s ring.

Part of my job is to take in used jewelry for repairs, remodeling or remounting.  Sometimes the work is carried out leaving the stone in place.  Sometimes the stone needs to be removed from its mount and later reset.  There is a lot of trust from all parties involved.

In the end what happened is that I remounted the diamond, my diamond, just like I wanted it.  I made a compression formed 18K yellow gold band with a filed 18K white gold prong setting.

Everyone that sees the ring thinks that the diamond is enormous.  I think that is probably a bi-color – G and F.  Kept clean, it seems to be a drop of sparkling water.


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Counter Blog to Jamie Hall’s Cuttlefish Casting Blog

by loiskmartens on February 28, 2010

Cuttlefish bone casting is a form of gravity casting and was used thousands of years ago by the Chinese and the Greeks, among other peoples.  Logically the method was developed in geographical areas that were near the sea or ocean and therefore had access to cuttlefish bone.  Landlocked areas used clay, sand or tuff stone for gravity casting.  Gravity casting is still widely used throughout the world today.

I studied with Maestro Baiocco who had worked for Bulgari making signet rings.  Bulgari used lead and indio models with no undercuts to impress the design into the cuttlefish bone.  Maestro Baiocco produced one signet ring from scratch every day.  Actually he produced it in 4 hours, went off to the horse races and came back to the lab shortly before closing time to give the ring it’s final polish.  The procedure is:  make the mold, cast, file inside of ring smooth, place on steel ring mandrel and use steel hammer to compact the metal, file inside to final ring size, file outside to desired shape, hollow out the form and finish.  This technique can be instant gratification and is useful for producing that one missing part for an object that is in consignment today.

The Maestro’s tips:  1.  Place a thin curved strip of zinc across the sprue opening. The hot metal will instantly melt the zinc and the flow will be quicker and smoother.  2.  Never cast on a cloudy day.  The additional atmospheric moisture causes more vapor release and therefore more porosity in the metal.

I do agree with Mr. Hall when he says that  “it can be a very temperamental material to work in”.  It is difficult to get repeatable results.  And the weight of the casting is up to the gods.  But seeing as how the cuttlefish bone texture remains quite popular as a surface texture I, and many others, cheat a bit to get controllable results.

Very simply one does a few carefully prepared castings of desired shapes and then makes a rubber mould of them.

These wax pieces have the cuttlefish bone pattern on both sides and can be used for bracelets, necklaces and earrings.  The long, narrow, half round wax wire I generally use as the central part of weddings bands with smooth lateral borders.  I have used these elements, on client’s request, to make many jewelry items.

This custom order is just hot off of my work bench and you can see more photos here.   The client specifically asked that the bracelet base have the cuttlefish bone texture. The bracelet is 7 1/2 in (19 cm) long, 1 in (2.5 cm) wide and weighs 77 grams.  My estimate as to how much gold would be required to make the bracelet was 71 grams and was calculated using 1 mm as the average thickness.  This meant that the textured base needed to be 0.8 mm thick or less.  Also the inside of the bracelet was to be smooth.

Here is how to do it.  File and sand flat 2 or 3 cuttlefish bones.  With a soft brush eliminate the powder from the bones veining.  Dust talcum powder onto both sides of a 1 mm sheet of pliable wax and place the wax on the cuttlefish bone.

Using disposable thin latex gloves to avoid leaving fingerprints, press the wax into the cuttlefish bone design.  Press firmly and in small areas with your thumbs to get a good impression on the wax.  Gently remove wax sheet from bone and cut out the shapes and sizes needed.

So I always have cuttlefish bone in my lab, whether it be for a quick cast or to rob nature’s design.

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Through a Glass, Darkly…

January 12, 2010

In taking photos of my jewelry I have generally used a setup where the object is placed on non-reflective glass elevated above a gradient background.  All of the photos on my web site were done in this way, which gave the site a homogeneous look and a “serious” gallery exposition for the jewelry.  For Etsy [...]

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New Years in July

August 1, 2009

For studio jewelers in Italy August represents the end of the jewelry making year.  Metals, stones and findings dealers close for the entire month.  Some have advised us that they will not reopen until the second week of September.  The newspapers do not even quote the prices of precious metals on the financial page. We [...]

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Front Page Listing on Etsy

June 15, 2009

On Saturday, June 6, at 10 p.m. EST, one of my jewelry pieces – a silver wolf head ring – was put on the front page list made by Etsy.  YEAH!  True, probably 10 p.m. on a Saturday evening isn’t prime viewing time but my store has only been open a couple of months and [...]

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The View out my Jewelry Lab Window

May 26, 2009

A few years ago a friend made an addition to my modest collection of roses.  His gift was a rose plant by the name of Rita Levi-Montalcini which I planted by my jewelry lab window.  It is a floribunda and blooms constantly and profusely ten months of the year.  The blooms are an attractive pink [...]

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Rings for the Earth Exhibition

March 24, 2009

I have just seen the Rings for Planet Earth Exhibition at the Alternatives Gallery in Rome, Italy. Fourteen international artists made one or more rings centered around this theme. There was beauty for the eye and food for thought. Here is just a taste of what I saw. Stefano Marchetti “Nuvola Nera di Smog” – [...]

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Jewelry Photography III – Pixel Power?

March 10, 2009

I think that this will be the last time that I write about the photographic aspects of presenting jewelry unless I run into some thing major with the photos. But I did want to talk about sizing in the sense of number of pixels per side. The photos for my jewelry store on-line are 457 [...]

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Jewelry Photography II

March 3, 2009

For my jewelry web site, Forms, Reinvented, I wanted to use good definition photos on a classic gradient background with defused lighting, not exactly floating the object but certainly making it the center of attention. I feel that I made a huge investment of time and money to become as competent as I am in [...]

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Jewelry Photography I

February 24, 2009

I have rings, earrings, bracelets, pendants and talismans made and ready to be sold. So what is taking me so long to set up this Etsy shop and get them on the market? The photos are the obstacle. I hope that this does not turn into a rant but I’m sure that it will take [...]

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