DIY Pro Jewelry Bench – Redux

by patpruitt on February 10, 2013

[Insert Woodwright's Shop theme song here]

So I originally posted this on my blog, but I have since eliminated that, so here it is again…Please feel free to make modifications as you see fit.

You will need some welding skills, if your horrible at welding, your bench will just look ugly, if you want a pretty bench, hire a welder for a six pack and call it a day.

So to start, you’ll need the following.

2″ square tubing
1″ angle iron
welder
chop saw
1 – 4′ x 8′ interior grade plywood

Optional – Drawer Set (see below)

Here is what it looks like all completed….

With the 2″ square tubing, this is what we are hoping to create…The overall Dimensions of the steel frame are approximately 36″ tall, 72″‘ wide, and 24″ deep

The cut list for the 2″ square tubing, for this particular bench.
- 8 pieces 36″
- 8 pieces 19-7/8″
- 8 pieces 13-7/8″
- 3 pieces 36″

First your going to weld up all the 36″ and 19-7/8″ pieces to form the “legs” of the bench.

Once you have all 4 of these then attach the short 13-7/8″ pieces

After that, all you have to do is combine the two drawer banks to the 36″ pieces and you have a bench.
From here you gotta be able to attach the top to the bench itself, I made it simple with 1″ angle iron drilled with holes like this.

Put them in these locations…

Next comes the table top, I used some interior grade plywood from Lowes, Araucoply is the brand name,  If you rip it down the middle and double it over, you will create a 1.5″ thick top.


To secure the two pieces together, you can use a bunch of 1-1/4″ screws from the bottom, or contact cement, either way, you just want to secure the two halves together, then sand and finish.  Personally I like the water based polycrylic from Minwax, it dries fast and builds up quick for a thick layer, give this a couple days to fully cure, and read instructions on application.

Now for the drawers, in this bench I took the hard way and installed angle iron runners for home made boxes to slide on, this is the same approach for the drawer tray.  Not going into detail on this one, but if you have come this far, you can probably figure it out, here are some photos for reference.  The nice thing, you can make your drawers any depth you want.

Drawers made from the plywood as well.

Alternatively, you can modify the design and buy a set of drawers from Rio Grande (Item Number - 113419)

Yeah, so there you have it.  Remember I am a professional ;-) , if you try this at home, take all safety precautions.  This bench will provide you years of service, and it will be heavy, something that is highly desired for stability and abuse.

Having built a number of these for the studio, it truly is a labor of love, as it is a lot of work.  If you don’t feel like embarking on this journey, Sam’s club sells a very inexpensive, well built work bench for about $200 along with a matching tool box on wheels ($200).  For the money, they are worth every penny.

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/ultra-heavy-duty-workbench/prod1490086.ip

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/ultra-heavy-duty-6-drawer-cabinet/prod2140859.ip

In the end its your call, enjoy life

{ 1 comment }

 ”I find your lack of faith disturbing.”

- Lord Vader, Star Wars Episode IV

Yes, I didn’t have the faith with 3M on this one, but sometimes things just sort of work the way you want them too…Case in point, the 3M Radial Bristle Brush (wheel)

Part Numbers from Rio
332343 – 80 grit – 6″ wheel
332349 – 1″ tapered hub adapter)

I was pretty skeptical about using it for general deburring of stainless steel on some bracelets I was working on.  The reason for my doubts were from my experience with the tiny wheels you load up in your Foredom units.  Those didn’t do anything for me, and were demolished pretty quickly when facing stainless.  The price for one(1) of these 6″ wheels is a lofty $50+, I was pretty hesitant to try one and see it fail.

Here is what I was starting with, fresh off the machining center, I needed to deburr and round over all the sharp corners for comfort.

You can see how sharp these are, my operation up till now consisted of some painstaking file work with needle files, then hit on the buffing wheel with a yellow treated buff loaded with bobbing compound to knock the corners down…from there I did the finish work.

Well I gotta say I am impressed, the cutting action is smooth and pretty consistent.  The wheel is 7/16″ wide so it can fit in narrow-ish places, a wider face would be a bit better for me, but that is not an option, the magic happens with this wheel in spades.

What took me about 30-45 minutes with the old method now takes me 5-10 minutes or so.  The cut is pretty controlled, heat generated is minimal, and the surface on the surrounded area is not molested like I thought it would be.  The de-burring and round over of the edge is pretty awesome.  Not to mention, I’m not getting all nasty and dirty from the bobbing compound.

I will note some cons with this wheel.
- The hub adapter takes a little bit of effort get fully seated on the tapered spindle.  It is trying to do two things, 1) Get seated on the taper, and 2) expand to hold the wheel in place.  Sometimes I found the adapter seated on the spindle, but not expanding to hold the wheel, you’ll have to mess with this to get it right
- At 3600 RPM this sucker moves a lot of air around the polishing machine (I don’t have a confined unit), so be prepared to have a lot of air moving around you.
- Unknown life span…I just got this and Im curious to see how long this wheel will last.
- Expensive, but for the price, it has already paid for itself in time savings and I feel Ill be using it more and more, so its really not that much of a con.

Hope this helps out some that is not a believer, Rio carries these in a variety of sizes and grits.

All the Best,
P@

www.patpruitt.com

{ 2 comments }

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