[Jewelry making - Article 00123] - Re: Photoetch

[Goss Design]

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    I have been doing some simple photoetching experiments this past week, and
    getting caught up on this mailing list I realized the group's been
    discussing it!

    I've been using photocopies (I don't have a laser printer) ironed on to
    metal to transfer the toner to the metal. The toner becomes the resist. I
    needed a way of transferring words to metal, and I have now tried it with
    bronze and silver bracelets with some success. See the last three images
    on my page of new work and experiments in progress at:
    <http://www.makersgallery.com/goss/new-a.html> .

    This is similar to the method described in The Complete Metalsmith, Tim
    McCreight, published in 1991 by Davis Publications. A local printmaker I
    know uses acetone to release the toner from the paper, but I found I lose
    too much detail with that method. Things I've learned over the past few
    days with the ironing method:

    -get a very good, dense photocopy or laser print. You want lots of toner.

    -make sure the metal is flat. Warps and curves stop the paper from
    contacting the metal.

    -make sure the metal is clean and grease free. I use a very fine abrasive
    (600 paper) under running water

    -use the highest setting on the iron, that's usually "linen".

    -put the metal on a flat piece of wood. You want the metal to get hot. If
    you put the metal on a steel block the block sucks the heat away.

    -use a thin, low quality paper for the photocopies. Better quality papers
    absorb too much toner when they are ironed.

    -soak the paper in water for a few minutes and then lay it on the metal
    like a transfer. The wet paper is more flexible and stays exactly where
    you want it. Lay a thin paper towel on top of that and iron. When you iron
    it you can tell from the steam that the temperature is almost there. Heat
    a few moments longer, usually until the paper begins to scorch.

    -don't iron the paper too long, or the ink gets absorbed instead of
    transferred.

    -before the metal cools, peel the paper back slowly. The ink should still
    be partly melted. If part of the ink has not transferred, iron those spots
    now before you remove all the paper.

    -it takes a lot of practice to get it right. Remove your mistakes with
    acetone and try again. Photocopies are cheap!

    -some minor flaws can be touched up with a waterproof fine tip marker.

    For these experiments I used a nitric acid etch (1:4 acid to water ratio)
    for a couple of hours. For anyone not familiar with etching, please read
    all the necessary cautions in the books: mixing instructions, gloves, eye
    protection, fume extraction etc.

Andrew Goss
http://www.makersgallery.com/goss/
Owen Sound, Ontario, Canada


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