Perfect Technique and Innovative Products

To keep up with the competition, goldsmiths and jewelers are increasingly being required to keep up-to-date with the latest technological developments in machinery and tools. New processes and products make everyday work easier. Innovation helps to save valuable time, benefiting the sales and consultation process. Well-stocked workshops can also offer additional services, enabling them to gain new customers and retain their customers in the long term. The number of cycles of new developments has increased sharply. High-tech devices, until recently reserved for industrial use, are now available as smaller cost-effective versions for use in workshops and studios. This provides designers with new opportunities, from the design stage through to producing prototypes, unique items or small series. Goldsmiths are finding it increasingly difficult to find their bearings and distinguish the necessary from the superfluous. The following selection of innovative products, compiled by the A+D team, should help with this problem.

A combination of craftsmanship and high-techs

The Alexa company designs and develops new jewelry concepts and collections. These specialists refer back to the usual traditional techniques of goldsmithing as well as using the latest processes in product design such as the 2-D or 3-D CAD design and 3-D CNC milling for producing models and prototypes in metal or wax. Traditional craftsmanship is perfectly combined with the latest computer techniques. The quality management is based on European standards. The results are typical of German high class workmanship. Alexa makes visions of jewelry creation a reality.

www.vertrauringe.de

When a magnifying glass is no longer enough

USB microscopes are particularly suitable for goldsmith studios and watchmakers as an inexpensive alternative. After all, magnifying glasses are no longer sufficient to identify finest structures that are mostly no longer recognizable to the human eye. Connected via a USB interface to a PC or laptop the device from the Cocos advertising specialty dealer, weighing only 76 grams, offers fascinating insights into miniature worlds. With a magnification of up to 200 times and with a resolution of 640 x 480 pixels, strikingly sharp images appear on the monitor. The supplied software permits study in full-screen mode, provides fixed mages and supports video recordings. The operation is also astonishingly simple: It only takes a turn on the focusing wheel to set things sharp, and the digital magnification provides every detail in a completely new light. Installation of the magnifying glass software is simple and quick. The device is also suitable for material testing, in particular in areas that are difficult to access.

www.cocos-promotions.de

Karl Fischer: creations with '3Design'

Cocos Promotions

Designing jewelry on the PC

The CD program '3Design' offers a new dimension of unique design opportunities. Using it, the goldsmith can create jewelry faster, more professionally and easier than ever before. The ergonomic user interface and the parametric construction tree make application conceivably simple and efficient. The new program was designed in cooperation with experts specifically for jewelry designers, and offers unique characteristics and functions. The design for the new 3D models is facilitated thanks to numerous forms of figuration and libraries. Customers can be convinced in advance with pictures of the planned, unique piece. Manufacturers can be presented with the finished products before series production in striking quality. '3Design' runs on Windows, Mac and Linux. Software purchase comes with German-language technical support and coaching also for employees. In a persona sales meeting, experts from 3Design present entirely without obligation the options offered by the software using practical examples. There are no bounds to creativeness using this program.

www.fischer-pforzheim.de

Classics for additional turnover

All items from the range of Birkenstock & Co. GmbH offer specialist retailers the opportunity to generate additional turnover. Competitive retail price recommendations and equally attractive purchasing terms are the trademark of the wholesaler. Examples of this include the HELI jewelry immersion baths and cleaning cloths from the current range. There are gold, silver and jewel immersion baths, and also jewelry, silver and watch cleaning cloths. Matching sales displays are supplied free of charge, as long as stocks last. HELI is available from the Beco Technic wholesaler distribution partner.

Beco Professionals

www.beco-professionals.com

Simply print out jewelry designs

The rapid prototyping process is currently undergoing a real boom in jewelry manufacture. Bjorn Schmidt, owner of the company 'Schmuck & Druck' (jewelry & print) is a skilled goldsmith. Customer requirements have continued to grow. The work of the goldsmith increasingly requires a high level of precision which cannot be achieved by hand. Production times have escalated. Not forgetting the high materials costs of prototype production. Bjorn Schmidt was convinced that customer satisfaction and cutting production costs do not have to be mutually exclusive. He recently discovered rapid prototyping and went on to establish his 'Schmuck & Druck' service. More and more goldsmiths are beginning to use this service. Orders can now be turned around faster and more cost effectively than ever before. Nevertheless, customers continue to enjoy the same level of service which has given 'Schmuck & Druck' its excellent reputation, ever since it was first founded. An additional recipe for success from the Niederbrombach-based firm: every idea, every design is dealt with in the strictest of confidence. The customer's order is and remains a secret. Schmuck & Druck also convert CAD data into professional and accessible wax models.

www.schmuck-druck.de

Schmuck & Druck

Fell: Comparison of the recording quality of a digital (above) and normal analogue (below) camera system

Digital video recordings for specialist businesses

Monitoring technology for jewelers and goldsmiths has changed rapidly. Computers now also have a part to play. Kaiserslautern-based manufacturer Mobotix specializes in digital recording solutions. Their cameras offer excellent imaging performance which is important for catching criminal in the case of  hold-ups and scams. Despite the use of high-resolution images, the data volume remains low. The 'MxPEG' data compression system significantly reduces the data volume compared to other processes. Mobotix is a complete recording system. The easy to operate MX Control Center software is also included with the package. User-friendly analysis tools also help identify picture sequences quickly. Installing the Mobotix recording system is very cost-effective. A computer network can then be used to transfer the images. The high level of compression means that this only takes up a small amount of bandwidth. The camera power supply is provided either centrally or by a suitable POE switch. This saves on the cost of installing a power supply.

www.fell.de

Hire display cases for special occasions

Jewelers and goldsmiths wanting to organize an even or exhibition outside of their company often have no suitable jewelry display cases for this purpose. The company 'Vitrinen & Service' from Max Reiner offers high quality jewelry display cases for hire which are specially adapted to presenting jewelry. This saves on high purchasing and storage costs. Service plays an important role for this skilled cabinet maker and interior designer. The cabinets will be supplied on-time and as agreed right across Europe and then put together and installed, complete with lighting. This means that the customer only then needs to decorate the cases. The high quality  cases are also suitable for trade fairs and exhibitions .

Max Reiner: Display cases for hire - white cube medium

www.max-reiner-vitrinen.com

Designing jewelry with clasps

The company Nittel-System is now offering an innovative interchangeable clasp system. The company offers goldsmiths numerous cost-effective options for implementing  their own designs and distinctive ideas. The Nittel clasp consists of a spring tube and matching keys. The spring tubes can be indiscernibly soldered or bonded onto gold or stone beads, pearls or gold links. This transforms the clasp into a component of  the piece of jewelry and allows it to integrate perfectly into the design. The assortment available covers all conceivable variations with lengths of 5 to 20 mm and gaps of 0.5 mm. Orders are dispatched within 24 hours, thus avoiding storage costs. All clasps and keys are available in 18 karat white or yellow gold, platinum, sterling silver and stainless steel.

www.nittel-system.de

Nittel

Reischauer

Individual settings for gemstones

Reischauer GmbH, a traditional company based in the gemstone and jewelry town of Idar-Oberstein, provides CAD constructions of individual settings for non-calibrated gemstones. CAD data, based on customer requirements and the specific stone, is used to create a wax model of the setting. Realistic images of the final product can be simulated in advance and the dimensions, volume and final appearance controlled. The setting is then produced in a precious metal in the company's own jewelry casting workshop using the lost wax technique. Rings with integrated settings can also be created. This enables the customer to obtain the precise metal setting they require for their unique gemstone quickly and cost-effectively.

www.reischauer.de

One of the very best vacuum pressure casting machines

Schultheiss GmbH, an international manufacturer of jewelry casting machines, has completely revised and expanded its range of vacuum pressure casting machines in its VPC series. One new feature with all the machines is that the control valve is mounted directly onto the control board. "This method of construction, used in particular in the high-tech industry, has several advantages," says managing director, Georg Schultheiss. The simple assembly and reduced number of components reduces the machine's complexity and so the user benefits from the faster production cycle and uncomplicated maintenance.

Schultheiss

An additional innovation for better quality results is the mixing booster which stirs the materials fully one last time just before casting. "This provides the user with the best possible level of homogeneity," stressed Schultheiss.

Schultheiss has also completed its VPC product family. The semi-automatic VPC052 and fully-automatic VPC063 are two machines for small to medium-sized trees offering the same technical features as the large devices.

www.schultheiss-gmbh.de

Stone setting made easy

In Germany, the profession of the stone setter was learnt by apprenticeship until 1972 - and  in Switzerland, this remains the case today. All over the world, the setting of precious crystals is a profession reserved for specialists. The AllSet® system from Foredom can either render this division of labor unnecessary or else ease the everyday lives of the specialists. The company has developed its own tool to make the setting of gemstones very simple and efficient. Some goldsmiths can reduce the time it takes to fix the stones onto the items of jewelry by as much as 75 percent by using this tool. Whether using a channel, pave, prong or bezel setting, with the AllSet® system everything is easy, according to users from all over the world Linda Steinke, a J.A. Certified Master Jeweler located in Delaware says: "One thing AllSet® does is alleviate the beginning jeweler's natural fear or awkward approach to their stone setting jobs. It is an excellent time saving guide to successful, consistent, quality stone setting. When I became familiar with the various components, guides, and set-ups, and earned what could be accomplished from using AllSet®, three very positive things happened to me: First, I doubled my setting speed. Second, the finished quality of my pieces improved and my customers took notice. Finally, I actually began to enjoy complex stone setting techniques rather than pushing those jobs deeper into the back of my work box. The AllSet® line has grown and I am starting to use the different milling, sanding and planing kits. But, it's the Stone Setting Guides that I most highly recommend since they have helped to increase my product on without sacrificing quality workmanship."

www.blackstoneind.com

Foredom: Stone setting with the No. 30® Handpiece

Foredom: Prong setting with AllSet®

Foredom: The AllSet® Basic Guide Assembly and No. 30® Handpiece

Foredom: Prong Guides come in Master Stone Setting Kits

Busch: Spiral drill 203SHM

The easy way of printing labels

The new version of 'eXtra4', the internationally recognized label printing program by Ferdinand Eisele GmbH is being released punctually for the start of the year 2008. From January onwards, the identification technology specialist from Birkenfeld near Pforzheim will provide the upgrade and the full version on the Internet for downloading. In terms of layout and user navigation, the new version 2.0 suits the overhauled Microsoft operating system Vista, is characterized by a modern appearance and offers in addition numerous innovations. Whoever until now had used the option of storing frequently repeated label texts in a database, can now divide this label data in groups. This increases the simplicity if there is a large number of saved label contents. For two years already, the number of different layouts that were made available electronically by Eisele had reached a scope that made administration by database necessary. The eXtra4 Layout Manager was developed and supplemented as an additional module the basic software. This layout database has now been integrated in the software. Now, price can be stated on a label in two different currencies. The program automatically calculates the price in the second currency. The software also glows with an improvement for customers with a database-linked item administration: The program's database module also guarantees enablement with MS Access 2007.

Eisele: Start screen eXtra4 2.0

Eisele: The layout manager with its options

Eisele: Label layout with price presentation in two currencies

www.extra4.de

Labels as temperature recorders

Electronic devices are getting continually smaller. Component temperature is rising. Damage caused by overheating can range from failure and destruction of the device, through to widespread fire in the workshop or the business. Additionally, knowledge of the real temperatures expected in operation is important for the prediction of life expectancy and reliability of all electronic devices. Above that, in the event of damage, there are frequent disputes concerning warranty or with the insurance. The self-adhesive MicroCelsi® temperature registration labels (measuring only 5 x 9 mm small enough to fit on an IC) can be adhered quickly to surfaces that require monitoring of maximal temperatures. The system is simple and reliable and costs only a few cents. MicroCelsi®s are available for temperatures between +40°C and +260°C. If one of the temperature thresholds is exceeded for fractions of a second, its surface irreversibly changes color from white to black. On request, interested parties receive a free sample set with various Celsi® labels.

www.spirig.com

Spring labels

Drag finishing machine from Otec for accurate surface processing

Platinum and stainless steel can also now be processed quickly and accurately

Otec machines give even the most delicate of jewelry a special shine

Highest precision for the third dimension

The more filigree work a piece of jewelry contains, the more time consuming it is to polish it evenly and retain the delicate contours. Working by hand is very time consuming and machine processing is generally not recommended due to the possibility of the pieces colliding. Harder materials such as platinum and stainless steel also take a long time to polish by hand. The company Otec has now developed a special machine polishing system for processing jewelry rings. Every ring is secured in a holder and dragged through a suitable substance. Each piece of machinery carries out controlled movements in all three dimensions. This guaranteed even and fast processing in just one to three hours, depending on the initial state of the surface and material.

The new process is not only suitable for gold and silver rings; it can also be used for platinum, stainless steel and other materials which are difficult to polish by hand. The only requirement is that the materials have a relatively even surface structure for processing the rings or pre-treating with abrasive (P400 grade). Machine processing is not only simpler and therefore more cost-effective than polishing by hand. The clamping and three-dimensional movement of the rings will allow for a significantly more even and accurate surface processing. At the same time, the design structure will remain unchanged and damage caused by tool collision can be avoided.

www.otec.de

Creativity and profitability are not mutually exclusive

Heimerle + Meule's successful concept involves designing challenging processes that are profitable as well as constantly optimized for the benefit of their business partners. Two current examples from the comprehensive program prove this claim. Firstly, the internationally active Pforzheim-based company has a new sensation to offer jewelry artists, wedding ring manufacturers and designers: multi-colored precious metal items produced in one piece. This new alloy relegates the lengthy soldering and welding processes until now required to create bi or multi-color effects to the past. This enormously simplify the jewelry making process. In addition to the fact that the layers of color are better combined at high material densities than with the usual procedure, the time and cost savings bring additional benefits. The multi-colored metal combinations are produced from high quality 18 karat yellow and white gold using a special technique. They can be supplied as tube, ring blank or profile ring in virtually any size and cross section and in various different layer combinations. An additional example of the quality performance of Heimerle + Meule are the new colors which will be offered by Colorit and Novorit from the start of 2008. New creative possibilities will be available through the targeted expansion of the existing Colorit color assortment.

Heimerle + Meule

www.heimerle-meule.com

Fire and flames for beautiful jewelry

Many qualified goldsmiths and jewelers use microflame soldering for processing the most valuable metals and for items of jewelry. These require an accurate and reproducible flame which can be adapted to the task in hand in terms of temperature and characteristics. Propane and acetylene gas bottles are often used with microflame soldering, with some practice required to regulate the gas pressure and gas mix characteristics. There is also an increased risk potential relating to the storage of the gas bottles.

The alternative to gas in bottles is a 'microflame soldering device' based on electrolysis. MIG-O-MAT microflame soldering devices create a water-oxygen mixture through the electrolysis of distilled water which then burns in an accurate flame, without leaving behind any residue. Users can choose from devices with a minimum of 60 liters to a maximum of 600 liters of gas power per hour for carrying out various welding activities. These also include devices which can serve up to 15 work stations.

The differently sized nozzles of 0.5 - 2.0 mm mean that even the smallest of settings, link and rings of sold silver can be accurately soldered and larger items of platinum can be fused or welded. A new micro-controller setting enables the user to enter the exact gas pressure required at the press of a button, depending on the selected nozzle size. Depending on the duration of operation, the user will only need to add distilled water, vaporizer fluid and/or flux material. As the gas power of the devices remains constant for many years, the electrolytes do not need to be changed regularly.

www.mig-o-mat.com

Highly polished precious metals

Shiny items of jewelry capture the eye of the observer. When polishing jewelry, significant importance is therefore placed in the fineness of the polishing medium and the type of buff used. The company Hatho from Eschbach in Breisgau offers a refined ammonium-free mixture, specially for polishing silver and gold alloys. The Hatho Polistar emulsion is characterized by its creamy-fluid consistency. It also smells pleasant. The 1 µm refined high polish product is ideal for bringing prepared scratch-free surfaces up to a high shine in no time, by simply adding a few drops and using a clean cotton buff. The Hato Polistar emulsion is available in 50 and 125 ml bottles.

www.hatho.de

The concentrated power of light

The invention of the laser revolutionized metals processing in the jewelry and watch sector: the stimulated emission of light rays enables even the hardest of materials to be processed accurately. The company Siro Lasertec GmbH is now one of the leading providers of laser systems and laser commission processing, in particular for the processing of metals for the jewelry sector.

Programs now offer numerous interesting solutions for goldsmiths and jewelry makers ranging from welding and engraving to inscriptions. These bring together years of expertise gained in the industry. These experiences, especially those drawn from their own work, enable the Pforzheim specialists to provide their customers from the worlds of industry and crafts with the best advice on which laser system to purchase. Siro Lasertec service bases can be found in the USA, throughout the European Union, in Thailand, China, India, the U.A.E., Vietnam, Korea, Australia, Turkey and Hong Kong.

Novel hands-free work station with outstanding performance characteristics: according to Siro Lasertec, this is the most powerful device on the market operating with 220 volts; it offers significantly more functions than other devices in this price range thanks to its extended microchip functions

The SL35T laser system is the perfect manageable desktop system for small craft works and jewelers

The new Firescan from Siro Lasertec enables laser engravings and inscriptions to be carried out at low cost

www.siro-lasertec.de

Daylight lamps for gemstones and jewelry

Daylight at the working place should be strong but tolerable. The new, innovative Spectrolight full spectrum daylight lamps from Eickhorst Systems, Hamburg are satisfying this need especially from 1 000 to 10 000 Lux with their mild impression of brightness. These illumination levels are known to be a precondition for the elevated demands in vision when working with gemstones and jewelry. Simple fluorescent lamps with their 'sharp' daylight, composed of red-green-blue light emission bands, have a fatiguing effect during the working day. The spectrum shows gaps between the bands, which have to be balanced by additional efforts of brain and vision. Whereas the full spectrum light includes all colors, the percept on is illuminative, easy and less exhausting. Another advantage is the high color rendering index, almost as high as natural daylight. The harmonized color temperature following CIBJO is 5,800 Kelvin and this is perfect for all gemstones, pearls and precious metals to be evaluated or displayed. Available power rating of Spectrolight lamps is from 15 to 80 Watt in a common caps and lengths.

www.eickhorst.com

Eickhorst: Vision daylight lamp with 2 x 24 Watt Spectro-light full spectrum light

Easy taking out of the tank insert

Pour off the residual water…

…and then pour off the granules

Continuous Casting Machine CC 3000 with granulation tank

Indutherm: Granulation tanks are available in different sizes

Granulation for many requirements

The Indutherm Company offers three systems for the production of granules: units for granulating of precious metals; additional granulating tanks for use with all Indutherm casting machines and finally a Micro-Shot system for the preparation of extremely fine granules. GZ A+D editor in chief Axe Henselder spoke with Roland Reimann, Indutherm Sales Manager Jewelry.

GZ A+D: Why Indutherm offers such a range of systems?

Roland Reimann: Many of our customers want to be able to prepare their own individual alloys, either by using pure metals and components or with different pre-alloys - and granules which are easiest to handle in further processing. For a frequent or permanent production of granules our granulating machines of the GU-series will be the first choice. If you want to produce granules only occasionally, the additional equipment of a vacuum pressure or a continuous casting machine with a granulating tank is a good alternative. The third one, the Micro-Shot system is developed for the preparation of very fine granules as needed e.g. for jewelry creations with granule surfaces.

GZ A+D: Are own alloys better in casting behaviour?

Roland Reimann: Not in general. But the degassing of silver alloys under vacuum, immediately before casting, is a reliable way to reduce the risk of oxidation after casting. Another application is the cleaning up of already cast metals under protective atmosphere or under vacuum.

GZ A+D: Is it difficult to produce granules?

Roland Reimann: It's easy. The optimized streaming of the cooling water guarantees continuity in shape and size of the granules And thanks to the ergonomic and well balanced design even the large tanks are easy to handle.

www.indutherm.de

The new generation of fine welding devices

Since its premiere at Baselworld 2007 the PUK3 has provided impressive proof at numerous international trade fairs that the developers at Lampert have a highly precise awareness of the requirements of their customers. Most recently, the PUK3 fine weld devices were successfully presented to a wide audience in Asia. At the autumn fairs in Hong Kong and Bangkok the PUK3 once again succeeded in attracting a great deal of attention to itself.

Lampert

The Lampert PUK3 professional plus

The names 'PUK3 professional' and 'PUK3 professional plus' stand for state-of-the-art technology and new design. Key words such as micro-welding field, silver mode, impulse modeling, soft start, program memory and doubled welding speed characterize the wide range of fields in which the new PUK has seen decisive improvement. The newly developed impulse modeling for silver is particularly successful at awakening the interest of customers. With the silver impulse the energy progression during the welding process is optimized in a manner that enables good welding results to also be achieved with silver. It is even possible to apply metal via the addition of silver welding wire with no problems.

In addition to the technology, product quality is also in the foreground at Lampert. All PUK3 fine welding devices have been recently certified and are entitled to bear the GS Mark is a globally-recognized symbol of safety and quality, showing that not only is the PUK made in Germany, but that this quality has actually been incorporated into the device. And as there are numerous tips and tricks involved in the successful use of the PUK, Lampert Werktechnik GmbH offers a free workshop-newsletter for all customers and interested parties.

www.lampert.info